The trees and shrubs that were installed are guaranteed for a period of one (1) year from the date of installation. The plant material has been inspected and certified before and during the planting, and care has been exercised by our company to ensure proper planting procedures. Please note however, there are several circumstances in which the material will not be covered under warranty. They are as follows:
- Plant material that has been found to have died from lack of water or lack of maintenance
- Plant material that has been damaged by animals or acts of vandalism
- Plant material damaged by any "Act of God" that we have no control over, i.e.:winter-burn, windburn, drought, flooding, etc.
- Plant material found to be damaged by insect infestation. The plant material has been inspected and certified to American Nurseryman Standards and Specifications. Our plants are guaranteed to be insect free at the time of planting.
- Annuals are seasonal and die at the end of the season and are not covered under warranty.
- Any plant material that has been pulled out or cut down prior to inspection.
Watering Seed & Sod
Watering must be started immediately after the sod is installed. It is essential that enough water be put down the first time to thoroughly soak the sod and the soil under the sod. You can check the moisture content by lifting up a flap of the sod and sticking your finger into the soil. It should be moist several inches deep. By giving the sod a heavy first watering you will rid the sodded area of pockets, which dry out the sod. Pay special attention to the corners and edges of newly sodded areas, they tend to dry out sooner and they are hard to water properly. You may have to hand water these areas.
If a newly sodded area accidentally does dry out it will probably turn brown. It is not dead, and will green up in about two weeks with proper water application.
After the first watering, water enough to keep the soil under the sod moist, not muddy. In cool weather this may mean watering only every 3 or 4 days, in very hot weather your may have to water daily. Do not allow the sod or soil underneath to dry out completely between watering.
In about 2 weeks the sod should begin to root in and the watering can be cut back to once or twice per week depending on the weather conditions. Water anytime the sod has a dry, pale-blue gray color or if the grass does not spring back after walking on it. It is important to know the frequent, shallow watering is not good for your lawn. Shallow watering causes the root system to grow near the surface. Water less often, but water deeply. Over time the roots will follow the water down into the soil and you will have a lush healthy turf.
It is important to water, newly seeded lawns, for the first two weeks. The best time to water is in the morning and late afternoon. Do not water at night this will promote fungal growth. Once the grass starts growing, water 2-3 times per week or more in hot, dry weather. It is important to keep the new seed moist, but not saturated. Straw holds moisture do not remove the straw until after the first mowing.
About two to three weeks after installation , your new lawn may need mowing. It is important to let your lawn dry out for a day or two so it firms up a bit before mowing. Make sure that the mowing height is set at 3" or higher. Letting your lawn grow a little longer is good for the grass because it encourages a strong root system. Never mow shorter than 2"and never remove more than 1/3 of the grass leaf at any one mowing. Not bagging your grass is a great idea. It returns the clippings to the lawn so they can decompose and provide added nutrients. It is also important to keep your lawn mower blades sharp. A dull blade will shred the tops of the grass blades, discolor the lawn and invite disease. The mower blade should be sharpened at least once or twice a year.
Watering Trees & Shrubs
If there is less than 1 inch of rainfall per week, water as follows:
- Trees will need to be watered two times per week in hot, dry weather and one time in cooler weather. Water for 1 minute or until water starts to flow out of the hole.
- Shrubs will need to be watered every day for the first week, every other day for the second week in hot, dry weather and two times per week in cooler weather. Water each shrub for 30 to 45 seconds.
Fertilizer - Trees & Shrubs
Your newly planted trees and shrubs have been fertilized. We recommend the following fertilization schedule for your trees & shrubs.
- Deciduous Trees - Evergreen Trees
- - When: 12 months after planting
- - Type: Tree stakes or full purpose granular feed according to package directions
Deciduous Shrubs - Evergreen Shrubs- When: Fall; September - October. Spring; March - May- Type: Liquid fertilizer or granular fertilizer (like 10-10-10) Annuals - Perennials- When: Spring through June- Type: Liquid fertilizer of granular fertilizer (like 10-10-10)
Your newly staked trees should be staked for 12 months. This allows the trees to stabilize in the soil and start root growth.
- Do the leaves have brown spots, holes, or chewed edges?
- Are the leaves turning pale green or yellow?
- Is there more than one kind of insect present?
- Are there holes in stems, branches or trunk?
- Are there girdled/dead stems, or root damage?
- Are the leaves spotted?
Fungus & Disease
- Are there round leaf spots, stem rots with a dry/papery texture, discoloration, or wilting?
- - Fungal Pathogen
Are there swollen areas, irregularly shaped leaf spots, yellow wilting, or wet rot?
- Bacterial Disease
Is the yellowing or mottling, stunting, distortion, or dieback on part of the plant?
- Viral Pathogen
Pets & Human Vandalism
- Is the stem/trunk badly damaged?
- Has anyone sprayed weed killer in the area?
- Is your dog deprived of fire hydrants?
- Is there a lack of new growth?
- - Cold Damage
Are leaves yellowing, reduced in growth, dead or dropping?
- Rapid change in light intensity
Do leaf tips appear to be scorched?
- Excessive heat
Is the tree or shrub wilting, yellowing, or shedding leaves?
- Drought or water logging
Is there leaf burn, distortion, yellowing, or bleaching?
- Excessive rates of pesticides or fertilizer
Is there yellowing, stunting, or death of older plant leaves or new growth?
- Nutrient Deficiencies
Proudly serving the communities of Effingham IL, Champaign IL, Mattoon IL, Charleston IL , Greenville IL, Mt. Vernon IL, Newton IL, Olney IL, Shelbyville IL, Salem IL, Urbana IL, Vandalia IL, Highland IL, Flora IL and all of Southern & Central Illinois for over 20 years.