Recently I have noticed quite a few customers thinking that it is too late in the season to do any plantings! When I hear this I am taken back because we are not entering what I consider to be the most opportune planting season!
The following article touches on the exact same topic and I thought it would be beneficial to our readers. The following article was printed in the Sept. 17th edition of the Effingham Daily News.
URBANA – With a good 2013 growing season, fall is a great time to plant trees, said a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator.
“Nearly all of northern Illinois has seen the decline and loss of ash tress from the Emerald Ash Borer or from the drought of 2012,” said Richard Hentschel. “The 2013 growing season has been good for many plants, including trees. The longer cooler spring with above-average moisture has been great. There are many other species of trees to choose from. This is also that opportunity in our yards to consider where the new tree will be planted and how big of a tree we want when it is mature.”
Once size, location and plant characteristics have been decided, the decision of planting the tree yourself or having the tree planted by the nursery must be made.
“How much the tree weighs is often the deciding factor for a home owner,” Hentschel said. “Trees can be found in large pots with an artificial soil and weigh far less than the same tree offered as a balled and burlapped tree.”
Hentschel pointed out that one limitation to a potted tree will be the sizes available. “If you are looking to replant with a larger caliper tree, then you will most often go with a balled and burlapped plant,” he said.
How you plant the tree once it has been delivered or brought home with you will make a big difference on how quickly it recovers and its long-term health. “The challenge will be making sure the pot or ball is planted at the right depth in your yard,” he said.
Regardless of how the tree sits in the bot of what it looks like being balled and burlapped, there is a critical spot on the trunk that should be found before digging the hole. This is the flare area where the trunk begins to turn into the root system.
“On larger trees, this flare is more readily apparent. On smaller trees, you will have to clear away the soil in the pot or the top of the ball to be sure you know where this flare is. Even on a larger balled and burlapped tree the flare can be below the top of the ball. What research as show us is that a tree planted too deep is slow to recover from being transplanted and has more problems in the the future with insects and disease,” Hentschel noted.
Once you have determined where the flare is, the hole should be dug so the flare will be at the soil line or even an inch or two above that. “If you do not have great drainage, then above the soil line is suggested. Roots will naturally grow down into the soil profile to a depth where they find a balance of soil moisture and air for quickest transplant recovery and long-term growth,” he said.
Once you are ready to set the tree in the planting hole, there are a few more things that can ensure that the tree will establish easily. For a tree that has been grown in a pot, there will be some roots that have found the edge of the pot and are now circling. These roots need to be bent outward as you backfill the hole.
“If they cannot be bent out, pruning them away is the alternative,” he said. “Any new roots that grow from the cut will grow out normally.”
For balled and burlapped plants and those with a wire basket, Hentschel recommends a different strategy.
“Once the ball is in the planting hole, removing some of the basket and burlap and twine is needed,” he explained. “Burlap and twine may not be entirely natural and rot away as in the past. Twine will need to be removed from around the base of the trunk and burlap down over the sides of the ball as far as possible.”
He added that the wire basket should also be removed down over the shoulder of the ball, leaving room for the expanding roots to develop. “You can use the remaining portions of the wire basket to tie more twine up and over the ball, just not around the trunk in order to help stabilize the tree in the new hole,” he said.
The final steps will be to backfill with the soil about two-thirds up, then water to settle the soil around the root ball. Finish backfilling and water to settle that soil as well. “With any remaining soil, you can create a berm for watering the rest of the fall. The berm will retain the water and keep it where the roots are , right in the are of the ball or pot,” Hentschel said.
“Monitor and water right up until about mid-November to be sure that newly planted trees have ample water,” he noted. “Before freezing temperatures get here, cut a couple of spots out of the watering berm so it will not stand water and harm the tree trunk.”