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STYLE

Stylish outdoor kitchens are the latest trend in outdoor entertaining. Choosing the right grill and accessories for your perfect backyard entertainment center is important. It’s your personal touch to your outdoor kitchen, a reflection of your lifestyle.

Twin Eagles design is truly unique, with exclusive geometric shapes, contoured angles, seamless welds and hi-polished accents. Every grill is an intriguing blend of modern design and classic elegance, making them a perfect match for both traditional and contemporary architecture.

PERFORMANCE

The unrivaled Twin Eagles Cooking System, developed by award-winning Gas Engineer Dante Cantal, is what separates Twin Eagles from all other grills.

Every detail of the grill promotes this extraordinary Cooking System. Mixing direct heat from specifically placed ports and channels with radiant heat from ceramic briquettes allows your grill to reach higher temperatures and distribute heat evenly to the grates. Your grill will preheat faster, perform better and use less gas. Hexagonal grates retain and conduct more heat into your food and provide more food to surface contact to brand your food with thick restaurant style sear marks.

Drafting vents draw cool air from the bottom of the firebox keeping the heat above the burners where it is needed while keeping the air/gas mixture constant for a more efficient flame. Zone dividers enable you to grill effectively with one burner only or regulate each area at a different temperature when cooking different food items.

This highly engineered Cooking System will elevate your next outdoor grilling experience to new levels of performance.

QUALITY

Quality you will immediately see, feel and trust. The latest laser cutting technology allows Twin Eagles to create the precise geometric shapes unique to its signature styling. The use of high grade 300 Series stainless steel and seamless heli-arc welded construction provides tremendous strength and durability essential for outdoor use.

Quality Control is assured throughout every step of the manufacturing process resulting in superior craftsmanship that will withstand and endure the harsh elements of the outdoors and bring you and your family timeless enjoyment.

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Although the best time to seed a lawn is in the fall, it can be done in the Spring if done properly. It is important to have good seed to soil contact through good soil preparation. It is also important to control weeds in the lawn because spring germinating weeds will out-compete the desirable turf-grass. The downside to spring seeding is that you can’t put down a pre-emergent to hold back crabgrass. Below explains how to properly seed an existing lawn and how to seed a new lawn.

Overseeding an Existing Lawn

• Mow the area to an 1″ or 1.5″. This will reduce competition from established grass.
• Apply a starter fertilizer (fertilizer high in phosphorus) over the entire lawn.
• Core aerate the area where the seeding will be done. This will help improve the germination rate and also increase the seed to soil contact. Remember there is no such thing as over-aerating a lawn before seeding.
• Apply the seed to the lawn. If the area that is being seeded is large it may be best to use a machine spreader. If the area is small, the seed may be applied by hand. Be sure to make 2-4 passes over the lawn in different directions to ensure an even spread. If you aerate your lawn before seeding, the seed will fall right into those grooves and ensure great seed to soil contact.
• Water the newly seeded area. It is important to keep the seed moist (not soggy) until all seeds have germinated. If the seed/sprout dries out there is a chance it will die out. Normally watering twice a day is enough for new seed to stay moist. Remember, established lawns do not require as much as newly seeded lawns.
• Six – Eight weeks after germination, apply a starter fertilizer that contains nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.

Problems to avoid when watering newly planted seed

• Over watering which results in puddles. This can cause the seed to float around or move and then the grass is not evenly distributed.
• Runoff on sloping ground. If the area that was seeded is on a slope it may be necessary to reduce the amount of water and do it more frequently.
• Over watering that allows the soil to get soggy. It take some soils a long time to dry out. Clay soil is often the worst. Be sure to stay off of the area if this happens.
• Pay attention to areas that are more shaded. These areas need less water, while sunny areas need more.

 

• Be careful not to under-water new grass seed. One mistake that could lead to starting all over again.
• If ou see moss or algae growths showing up, especially in shaded areas, there is too much moisture present.

Seeding a new lawn

• On uncompacted soils, you can core aerate your lawn to ensure seed to soil contact.
• On compacted soils, you will want to till the soil 4-6 inches, rake smooth, allow it to settle for a week or so, rake it one more time and then apply seed.
• On lawns with an excessive amount of thatch, you will want to loosen and remove as much thatch as possible. If the thatch is over 1″ thick, either use a sod cutter or till the soil to turn the thatch under.
• Before you apply the seed, use a starter fertilizer over the entire lawn.
• After seeding, make sure there is good seed to soil contact. A LIGHT roller may be used to ensure seed to soil contact. Or if you used a rake, make sure the grooves are big enough to trap the seed.
• Water the newly seeded are to encourage germination. Keep the seed moist, not soggy, at all times.
• As soon as the grass reaches 2.5-3″ you are able to mow.
• Six – Eight weeks after germination, apply a fertilizer containing Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium.

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Can you find the House in this Picture?

To all Illinois residents: Be on the lookout for kudzu. This high-climbing, fast-growing weed, which is illegal to buy, grow and plant in Illinois, smothers existing vegetation and has been spotted in more than 30 Illinois counties.

“Many people are not aware that kudzu has been found in Illinois,” said George Czapar, an extension educator at the Springfield Extension Center of the University of Illinois. In collaboration with the Illinois Department of Natural Resources, Czapar is monitoring kudzu in Illinois and is part of an effort to slow the spread of the creeping vine.

“We try to make people aware of what it looks like, and help document infestations of kudzu” he said. “We hope to make people more vigilant to keep kudzu from spreading.”

Kudzu (Pueraria montana var. lobata) is sometimes confused with wild grape, another climbing vine that is widespread in Illinois. Although several species of wild grapes are commonly found in Illinois, they do not spread as aggressively, Czapar said. Kudzu is distinguished from wild grape by its trifoliate leaves, like on soybeans; whereas wild grapes have single leaves alternately attached to the stem.

Kudzu can grow a foot a day, and a single crown may send 30 vines in different directions, Czapar said. Vines can extend 98 feet, and mature vines can be four inches thick, according to the Southeast Exotic Pest Plant Council.

Kudzu was introduced from China and Japan, coming to the United States during the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia as part of a Japanese garden exhibit.

In the 1930s, kudzu was touted for its ability to stabilize eroding land and as a food source for cows, Czapar said. The U.S. government promoted what it called the “wonderplant,” leading to 2.47 million acres of kudzu-covered U.S. land by 1946, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Now the invasive vine, a relative of soybeans, covers an estimated 7 million acres across southeastern states. In Illinois, kudzu is located mainly along roads.

“It blocks the sunlight and smothers native plants,” Czapar said. No natural enemies or predators of kudzu are common in Illinois, which is typical of an introduced, invasive species, he said.

Southeast Illinois has 90 percent of the Illinois kudzu and the greatest kudzu problem compared with the rest of the state, said Jody Shimp, regional administrator at the Illinois Department of Natural Resources.

The northernmost reported patch of kudzu in Illinois is in Evanston, where there is about an acre of kudzu near the Chicago Transit Authority railroad, Shimp said.

Kudzu has not been identified in Champaign County, but it has been found in Clark, Cumberland, Macon, Peoria, Shelby and Tazewell counties. In 2003, surveys showed that about 100 different locations of kudzu covered 410 acres of Illinois, Shimp said. Most Illinois populations of kudzu cover less than a couple of acres.

Illinois researchers have found that kudzu survives Illinois winters and has excellent germination – characteristics previously assumed to be untrue, Czapar said.

Since kudzu is a host for soybean rust, interest in the weed has increased lately, Czapar said. Soybean rust can cause significant soybean yield loss. First discovered in the United States in November 2004, the rust is now in Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Mississippi and South Carolina, according to the USDA.

The U.I. Extension Center and the Illinois Department of Natural Resources are working together to manage kudzu in Illinois. The Illinois Department of Natural Resources uses both herbicides and mowing to destroy patches of kudzu, Shimp said.

“Because its root system can descend 12 feet into the soil and weigh 300 pounds, controlling kudzu requires a combination of management practices rather than simply pulling out the weed,” Czapar said.

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A: Lawns need to “breathe”, and they can become smothered by leaf build-up, leading to problems such as snow-mold. Fall is an important time when lawns are blessed with sufficient sunlight, nutrients & water, and enjoying temperatures that are neither too cold nor too hot, cool season grasses such as Kentucky Bluegrass revitalize themselves in the fall. A thick layer of fallen leaves can impede on the growth of these grasses. They can deprive the grass of one of the key elements: Sunlight. If not raked up in time, a thick and/or matted layer of fallen leaves casts excessive shade over the grass below.

Q:  How long can leaves sit on the lawn before raking?

A: Leaving leaves on the lawn for more than three of four days may be unwise. Other factors also play a significant role. How thick is the layer of leaves? Have the leaves been matted down by the rain? The thicker the layer and/or the wetter the leaves, the sooner you should rake or otherwise remove them. What type of leaf removal equipment will be working with? If you use a leaf blower properly, you may be able to pick up the leaves faster than you would using a rake, allowing you to procrastinate a bit longer. But using leaf blowers isn’t for everyone.

One time saving method for leaf removal, that by preclude having either to blow or rake leaves, is to use a mulching mower instead.

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No Reasonable Offer Will be Refused! Fall is a great time to plant, so why not take advantage of this HUGE offer and save some money while your at it!

Some of our “Make An Offer Inventory Sale” products include:

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