The following article is provided by the University of Illinois. Shedding some light on the fast-growing invasive weed known as Kudzu.
Can you find the House in this Picture?
To all Illinois residents: Be on the lookout for kudzu. This high-climbing, fast-growing weed, which is illegal to buy, grow and plant in Illinois, smothers existing vegetation and has been spotted in more than 30 Illinois counties.
“Many people are not aware that kudzu has been found in Illinois,” said George Czapar, an extension educator at the Springfield Extension Center of the University of Illinois. In collaboration with the Illinois Department of Natural Resources, Czapar is monitoring kudzu in Illinois and is part of an effort to slow the spread of the creeping vine.
“We try to make people aware of what it looks like, and help document infestations of kudzu” he said. “We hope to make people more vigilant to keep kudzu from spreading.”
Kudzu (Pueraria montana var. lobata) is sometimes confused with wild grape, another climbing vine that is widespread in Illinois. Although several species of wild grapes are commonly found in Illinois, they do not spread as aggressively, Czapar said. Kudzu is distinguished from wild grape by its trifoliate leaves, like on soybeans; whereas wild grapes have single leaves alternately attached to the stem.
Kudzu can grow a foot a day, and a single crown may send 30 vines in different directions, Czapar said. Vines can extend 98 feet, and mature vines can be four inches thick, according to the Southeast Exotic Pest Plant Council.
Kudzu was introduced from China and Japan, coming to the United States during the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia as part of a Japanese garden exhibit.
In the 1930s, kudzu was touted for its ability to stabilize eroding land and as a food source for cows, Czapar said. The U.S. government promoted what it called the “wonderplant,” leading to 2.47 million acres of kudzu-covered U.S. land by 1946, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
Now the invasive vine, a relative of soybeans, covers an estimated 7 million acres across southeastern states. In Illinois, kudzu is located mainly along roads.
“It blocks the sunlight and smothers native plants,” Czapar said. No natural enemies or predators of kudzu are common in Illinois, which is typical of an introduced, invasive species, he said.
Southeast Illinois has 90 percent of the Illinois kudzu and the greatest kudzu problem compared with the rest of the state, said Jody Shimp, regional administrator at the Illinois Department of Natural Resources.
The northernmost reported patch of kudzu in Illinois is in Evanston, where there is about an acre of kudzu near the Chicago Transit Authority railroad, Shimp said.
Kudzu has not been identified in Champaign County, but it has been found in Clark, Cumberland, Macon, Peoria, Shelby and Tazewell counties. In 2003, surveys showed that about 100 different locations of kudzu covered 410 acres of Illinois, Shimp said. Most Illinois populations of kudzu cover less than a couple of acres.
Illinois researchers have found that kudzu survives Illinois winters and has excellent germination – characteristics previously assumed to be untrue, Czapar said.
Since kudzu is a host for soybean rust, interest in the weed has increased lately, Czapar said. Soybean rust can cause significant soybean yield loss. First discovered in the United States in November 2004, the rust is now in Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Mississippi and South Carolina, according to the USDA.
The U.I. Extension Center and the Illinois Department of Natural Resources are working together to manage kudzu in Illinois. The Illinois Department of Natural Resources uses both herbicides and mowing to destroy patches of kudzu, Shimp said.
“Because its root system can descend 12 feet into the soil and weigh 300 pounds, controlling kudzu requires a combination of management practices rather than simply pulling out the weed,” Czapar said.
Q: Why is it necessary to take leaves off of the lawn?
A: Lawns need to “breathe”, and they can become smothered by leaf build-up, leading to problems such as snow-mold. Fall is an important time when lawns are blessed with sufficient sunlight, nutrients & water, and enjoying temperatures that are neither too cold nor too hot, cool season grasses such as Kentucky Bluegrass revitalize themselves in the fall. A thick layer of fallen leaves can impede on the growth of these grasses. They can deprive the grass of one of the key elements: Sunlight. If not raked up in time, a thick and/or matted layer of fallen leaves casts excessive shade over the grass below.
Q: How long can leaves sit on the lawn before raking?
A: Leaving leaves on the lawn for more than three of four days may be unwise. Other factors also play a significant role. How thick is the layer of leaves? Have the leaves been matted down by the rain? The thicker the layer and/or the wetter the leaves, the sooner you should rake or otherwise remove them. What type of leaf removal equipment will be working with? If you use a leaf blower properly, you may be able to pick up the leaves faster than you would using a rake, allowing you to procrastinate a bit longer. But using leaf blowers isn’t for everyone.
One time saving method for leaf removal, that by preclude having either to blow or rake leaves, is to use a mulching mower instead.
Good Day, from the entire Kiefer Landscaping family! Over the past year we have tirelessly tried to bring our customers’ up-to-date information regarding Residential & Commercial Landscaping. We are fully aware that there may be things our customers would like to read that we just haven’t touched on yet. So with that in mind we have decided to open up the flood gates and let YOU tell us what you would like to see. Feel free to post your comments or Contact Us with your ideas!!
Starting Today, October 25, until November 11, we are having a “Make An Offer Inventory Sale”! Come in and make an offer on any Trees, Shrubs, or Perennials left in stock and SAVE BIG!!
No Reasonable Offer Will be Refused! Fall is a great time to plant, so why not take advantage of this HUGE offer and save some money while your at it!
Some of our “Make An Offer Inventory Sale” products include:
- Daub’s Frosted Juniper on Stick
- Koster’s False Cypress
- Weigelas
- Altheas
- Grasses
- Knockout Roses
- Azaleas
- Lilac Trees
- Weeping Cherry Trees
- Magnolias
- Golden Curls Willow Trees
- Ruby Tears Crabapple Trees
AND MUCH MUCH MORE!!!
The following is a custom designed Brick Paver patio complete with an Outdoor Grilling Station & Burn Pit. We also designed and installed a wonderful landscape that adds depth and character to the entire house.
Below are some before & after pictures of a project we recently completed. The homeowners new landscape is complete with Red Crushed Granite, Oversized Paver Edging, Drystack Walls, Omega Steppers, Granite Boulders, & various perennials.
Are you looking for great home, Lawn & Garden deals? Look no further than Collections Etc.
Over the past few months we have diligently reviewed several companies offering home, Lawn & Garden products. Collections Etc. is a wonderful catalog site offering hundreds of affordable products. Whether your looking for bird houses, fountains, lawn ornaments, memorials, planters, or even garden tools. Collections Etc. has everything to complete your outdoor experience plus much more. Click on the link below to browse their online catalog.
Believe it or not but Autumn is finally upon us. As we gear up for the fall season, there are several tings to keep in mind to prepare your lawn for the winter months. After reviewing our fall lawn & landscape care checklist, contact us or call our offices at (217)347-7500 for a free onsite consultation and estimate!
Fall Lawn Care Checklist:
- Aerate
- Lime Applications
- Slit Seeding
- Broadcast Seeding
- Fertilizer Treatment
- Leaf Removal
- Grub Treatments (best if done in the Spring)
- Start thinking about Irrigation Winterization
Fall Landscape Care Checklist:
- Cut down & trim perennials
- Blowout debris for landscape beds
- Topdress Landscape rock
- Trim Trees
- Leaf Removal
- Replace any dead or dying perennials
- Start thinking about Irrigation Winterization
Question: My lawn was weed free after the last application of herbicides, but then became weed infested again?
Answer: It is not that the application didn’t work. Weeds actually tell you a lot about the condition of your lawn and are an indication of what you need to do to grow healthy grass. Weeds thrive in soil that is compacted, poorly fertilized, and not pH balanced. They are also found in lawns that are improperly watered, seeded, and mowed. As you can see it takes more than just fertilizer to make your lawn weed free. Eliminate the conditions that promote weeds by doing the following:
- Aerate your lawn in either the spring or fall. Aerating removes soil plugs from the lawn and allows air, water and nutrients to reach the root system. This increases the activity of soil microorganisms that decompose thatch. Often times, aerating is done to help relieve soil compaction. Soil compaction reduces the amount of air in the soil and is a physical barrier to root growth.
- Dethatch your lawn if needed. Thatch is a layer of grass stems and roots on the surface of the soil. When it becomes 1/2″ or more, the grass roots will grow within the thatch instead of in the soil. If thatch build up is not controlled, grass is susceptible to insects, disease, and weather stress.
- Use proper mowing techniques. Improper mowing techniques cause many lawn problems. If you mow lower than 1 1/2 inches you can kill the root system. A low mowing height also allows sunlight to reach weed seeds that are trying to germinate. A majority of lawns should be kept at 3 – 3 1/2 inches. This will help create a deeper, more drought-resistant root system. Also, keep your mower blades sharp! By doing so, you will prevent the development and spread of fungal diseases. Mow in different directions. Mowing in the same direction can cause compaction, which weeds love! Try not to cut wet grass. Wet grass causes uneven cuts, the clippings to clog the mower, and clumps can block sunlight. With proper mowing techniques, you will see a huge improvement in the health and appearance of your lawn.
- Maintain the pH of your soil. An ideal pH level is between 6.5 and 7. If it is lower than 6.5 your soil is too acidic and above 7 your soil is too alkaline.
- Properly fertilize your lawn. For those who want their lawn looking the best they should fertilize a minimum of 4-5 times a year. Fertilized lawns are greener, denser, and healthier than unfertilized lawns. It also helps make lawns resistant to drought, insects, and diseases. We now offer an organic fertilizer program as well as our granular program.
- Water your lawn. A typical lawn needs 1″ – 1 1/2″ of water per week from either rainfall or irrigation. Be sure to water deep but infrequent. The soil should be soaked to a depth of 6″.
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The following information is an excerpt from our recent August 2011 Newsletter. To sign up and receive a FREE newsletter every month, chalked full with helpful information and checklists, simply fill out your Name and Email Address in the Newsletter sign-up box located on the side bar.
Sizzling Summer!
Is your lawn being cooked by these boiling hot temperatures?
Hot temperatures and lack of moisture cause lawns to go dormant or begin turning brown. Often times the lawn will recover once the weather conditions improve. However, during this dormant period, the lawn is susceptible to insect and weed invasion. There may also be areas of the lawn that do not come out of dormancy, which can create bare spots in your lawn. These areas will need to be over seeded. BUT if the soil has been infested with weeds, insects, thatch or just general wear and tear, make sure your repair the soil before re-seeding.
Follow these fall renovation steps and you will have the best looking lawn on the block!!
- Have your soil tested: A pH that is not neutral can cause many problems in the lawn.
- Dethatch your lawn: Excessive thatch creates an environment for disease and pests.
- Aerate your lawn: More often than not weeds are found in areas of the lawn that are compacted. Aerating will help relieve this compaction, improve rooting, and decompose thatch.
- Slit-seed your lawn: This will put the seed in direct contact with the soil which allows for a faster and more successful germination rate. Slit-seeding creates a thicker more dense lawn that will crowd out the weeds.
Keep Your Eyes Peeled!
If it isn’t heat stressing or burning your lawn, then it could be fungus or insect damage. Brown patch, dollar spot, summer patch, smut, and rust are all fungal diseases that are caused by summer heat. However, these diseases can be confused with drought stress. It is very important that you watch for warning signs before its too late. The most common insect damage in August is caused by white grubs. Simply pull up on areas of your lawn. If it pulls up easily, you may want to take a closer look! If you see a white “c”-shaped grub below the roots, you’ve got a problem! Also, be sure to prevent drought stress damage by using proper watering techniques.
